How To Repair Electrolysis On A 12 Mustang Hood
Electrolysis - A Superior Cleaning Process
20 years of success in metallic cleaning
Back to my Habitation Folio
Updated August 2021. Based on feel, contempo discoveries and feedback from internet friends.
Latest additions:
Important notes on POWER SUPPLIES. Most ALL automotive battery chargers bachelor to the average consumer are Automatic Rate. These may non work without a 12 volt battery in parallel.
Please read boosted particular in department <Materials Required>
If any of the following is unclear or technically inaccurate, I beg to be corrected.
Many 100's of questions and favourable comments have been sent to me virtually this...from all over the world.. Not one dissatisfied report! A few corrections merely by and large practiced news!
<What is Electrolysis?> - <Indirect Electroysis> - <What tin can exist cleaned?> - <Materials Required> - < Safety>
<Setup & Process> - <Special Methods> - <ReUse /Recycle> - <Questions & Answers> -
<An interesting utilize for electrolysis- a lather maker> -
<User Feedback>
An electrolysis primer - Introduction
One of the most slow jobs we come across while restoring sometime iron is the procedure of removing many layers of paint and rust as well every bit freeing up seized bolts and pistons. The following introduces yous to a method of parts cleaning that has proven to be the almost effective means of de-rusting and paint removal I accept ever used.
BEFORE YOU Exercise Annihilation READ ALL THESE INSTRUCTIONS .
A word to the wise, slower is amend. Trying to clean annihilation fast and without care and attending may issue in desperately pitted and damaged items. Using loftier current and a big positive electrode eats away at steel (and anything metallic) in a non-uniform and ambitious way leaving pits that may be worse than what rust did to it. High voltage (moreso than electric current) can also crusade hydrogen embrittlement (covered in more detail below).
Groundwork
The electrolysis process has been used by archivists for years to make clean metal objects. I saw a prove where a 1700's vintage French contumely cannon was cleaned to reveal the consummate Royal Insignia, and this was later on 250 years in the sea. I had e'er expected it was too expensive and circuitous but information technology is not.
I tin personally vouch for this procedure since it was used exclusively for the cleaning and un-seizing of my own engines and mechanism. Anyone who has ever tried to clean up rusty atomic number 26 (or any metal) will embrace this method with a passion equal to their dear for the object itself.
A specific experience with this process has been recently tested when I overhauled a Blazon J, twin cylinder Atlantic Marine Engine. This engine was no exception to the state in which we oftentimes discover our engines. The parts that were not covered in x layers of paint, were heavily encrusted with rust and many parts (including both pistons) were seized solid. The engine is now completely apart and make clean using electrolysis exclusively and without the use of rotary wire brushes, chisels, flame rut or excessive strength. And it is cheap and easy to implement and is even more environmentally friendly than the use of caustic and petroleum-based cleaners. At that place are no foul odors and the solution (if you employ washing soda) is non irritating to the peel.
I finished restoring my grandad's South Bend 9" Model C lathe (after it had been missing for 30 years). I used electrolysis exclusively to remove pigment, rust and grease. For more info on South Bend Lathes visit the group at Yahoo. The members are helpful and enthusiastic. Encounter more than of my lathe restoration
What is Electrolysis?
For the purposes of the information contained herein, electrolysis is a process that passes an electric current through an Electrolyte, causing the migration of the positively charged ions to the negative electrode and the negatively charged ions to the positive electrode.
Simply put, if you connect a power supply to a container of liquid with ii rods immersed in the liquid, chemical changes occur to both the rods, which must be a metal (or otherwise conductive), and the liquid, (electrolyte).
The process of electrolysis is non new, in fact it is every bit sometime as electricity itself. The same procedure occurs naturally when a metal in the environment is exposed to a reactive liquid such as salt. A pocket-sized battery is created. Lead-acid batteries of today produce power by the procedure and electroplating is performed by using electrolysis. For our purposes, we are trying to remove pigment, grease and rust from metallic. Rust and corrosion is formed past electrolysis. We will use the same method to remove information technology, and more.
Electrolyte - A substance, in solution with water or another liquid, which is chemically changed by passage of electrical current through information technology.
The electrolyte nosotros apply and refer to is the substance y'all mix with water in a bucket into which you place an electrode and the part yous wish to clean.
Ion - An atom or group of atoms that carries a positive or negative electric charge as a issue of having lost or gained one or more electrons.
The particles of metallic which travel from the function being cleaned to the electrode are in the grade of ions. An cantlet of iron (for example), in one case acted upon electrically through an electrolyte, is broken away from the base metallic and becomes an ion with a negative charge. It travels through the electrically conductive electrolyte and goes to the electrode since it has an analogousness (attraction) for the positive electrode. At that betoken the ion will lose its negative accuse and either stick to the electrode or drib to the lesser of the bucket. If the particle is small-scale and calorie-free enough, it may become part of the electrolyte solution.
What is Indirect Electrolysis? New 2012
Also referred to as "ion blasting", it is a culling method that has recently been introduced to me. Indirect electrolysis involves placing an particular to be cleaned betwixt (non electrically connected to) ii electrodes connected to a adept DC voltage supply. It would seem this method may be ideal for ensuring that no hydrogen embrittlement occurs because the effective voltage on the item you are cleaning would be a fraction of the power supply .
Still-unproven comments propose that when cleaning metals, the particular you lot are cleaning becomes both the negative and positive (anode and cathode) of a excursion. This may suggest that ane side will get nicely cleaned and the opposite side will get pitted/eroded. For metals information technology may non be very useful.
If cleaning a not-metallic item, such as a porcelin sink that has been underwater and covered in crustaceans, (think of Titanic artifacts), the ion blasting would gently brush the item to remove softer deposits. Unbaked clay would not be a good choice and many items would be too soft for this.
Experments are needed and more will follow when known.
What tin be cleaned?
The greatest success has been with steel and cast iron but essentially any metal tin can be cleaned or for that matter whatever electrically conductive material. Just special caution is needed with aluminum or plated items. The procedure removes layers of metal at a molecular level and very slowly (if washing soda is used).
Some warnings which may apply to your project:.
"Light" metals such as aluminum, zinc, white metallic or other alloys break downwardly much quicker than steel, cast iron or brass. I think it'due south considering at the molecular level, in that location is a weaker bond, but I am non a chemist. A smoothen aluminum surface that has light surface corrosion tin all the same exist cleaned with electrolysis, only only immerse the cloth for curt periods (15 minutes) and make clean with a soft castor. Longer periods will discolour, badly pit or even completely dissolve aluminum etc.
As well, materials with a thin or not-well-bonded electroplated surface may be adversely affected by long periods. The plated surface may actually skin abroad. Experimentation is required no matter what y'all are working with. Try short immersions beginning and gradually lengthen the periods. My primary tests on heavy, thick cast fe and brass parts show that they tin be left "cooking" in the electrolysis bath for hours, days even weeks with no noticeable loss of metal and the brass may have some tarnish or discolouration. This is cleanable with conventional metal smooth and/or a buffing wheel.
Items that accept wood or leather or plastic. Some things you lot may desire to clean also have leather wrapped handles, wooden bases, or plastic pieces fastened.
Near plastics or Teflon will not be affected still I have institute that certain plastic become stiff or brittle and discoloured after electrolysis.
Wood and leather can be badly affected by this procedure. Leather tin can plow to mush, woods turns into lurid. In any of these cases, remove all not-metal parts from the unit first. If this is impossible, selectively bathe merely the metal parts. Otherwise you lot should seriously consider using another method to make clean the metal.
Precious metals,(gold or silver) tin can be cleaned simply;
a) Some amount of precious metal is removed and this may be highly undesirable.(I did try a dingy gold cervix chain. Information technology worked just probable devalued it).
b) If the particular is plated (brass, gilt, silver), information technology may peel off the plated layer and finer ruin it if it was a but hot-dip process.
c) Coins and other items with fine detail can be cleaned but the delicate lines and raised words may exist lost on badly corroded coins. If a truly vintage money, other methods should be tried showtime.
And so in general, experimentation is required while taking observe of the cautions outlined above. So don't arraign me if your aluminum carburetor/engine block dissolves overnight. Or if your silver-plated water jug is reduced to the original tin shell.
I tin't emphasize enough that aluminum requires special care. The polished housing on a motorcycle engine tin be pitted and etched leaving a very poor mottled surface.
Other information on what yous can clean and how to clean information technology is in Questions and Answers.
Materials Required - In addition to the part you are trying to clean, y'all demand :
� A non-electrically conductive container large enough to hold the parts you want to clean, (i.e. a plastic bucket or for large engine parts perhaps an sometime (fibreglass) bathtub ). At that place are other containers like a 45 gallon (about 200 litre) plastic drum that are used for lather and other materials sold in majority. They are sometimes available cheap or gratuitous at recycling centres. An entire single cylinder engine could be put in one of these.
You could use a copper, stainless steel, steel or cast iron saucepan, sink, pot etc. connected to the POSTIVE post as long every bit y'all are careful not to let the role being cleaned touch the side of the bucket (short excursion will occur).
SEE THE Safe RULES!!!
Oct 2020 Notes on power supplies!
A problem that did not exist 20 years ago was the unsuitability of automatic, car battery charger. Whatsoever low voltage DC power supply would work. For simplicity and ease of access, the common 12 volt battery charger was the ideal low-cost solution, readily available at many stores. Just many electronic items have a power adaptor that will output half-dozen, 9, 12 volts DC (a estimator laptop power brick [direct current] would do) -expect for 2 amp or higher rating. These accept been used successfully for smaller projects. I did non immediately suggest those since not everyone has boxes of used "stuff" in their workshop every bit I do. Automotive chargers used to exist fixed rate 4, eight, 12 amp and college.
At present, Automated Rate chargers are the norm and all chargers, from cheapest to Machine Store grade are probably auto-rate. The car-rate charger will charge at a high charge per unit initially (based on the adequacy of the charger) and decreases current flow as the the battery charges up. This stops the serious problem of overcharging a battery which can ruin it. The older, fixed-rate chargers (don't think you can purchase one anymore for the boilerplate consumer) would put out a fixed 4 or half-dozen amp (trickle charger) or 10 to twenty amp, fast charger. In either instance, leaving these connected to a car bombardment (lead-acid configuration) unattended, would potentially damage the battery. For electrolysis purposes, this is ideal since you want iv amps or better constantly available to make clean axe heads, cast iron pans, stove or engine parts etc.
All the same, my automatic charger (Canadian Tire brand) will not output anything unless the load already has a hint of ability left in it. Every bit long every bit the battery has a few volts left, even 3 or 4 rather than fully charged 12 to thirteen volts, the charger will output power. IF the battery is so dead it has non a hint of power, the charger won't exercise anything. This surprised me when I got my first new manner charger. You tin't hook up a 12 volt lite bulb to it, information technology won't turn on. Rather useless since I oftentimes used a charger to exam 12 volt bulbs and appliances.
How does this relate to electrolysis? When you have fix the electroysis bathroom with, for example, a rusty steel wrench and a piece of scrap metal connected to the positive lead, there is piffling or no voltage produced or at least not enough to come across thr threshold the charger needs to "kick-in". If the cathode/anode were steel and aluminum or zinc, more voltage may be produced but aluminum or zinc should non exist used as it deteriorates very quickly in the bathroom.
SO, bated from finding an quondam fixed-rate charger (which may take macerated rectification due to age and therefore poor for electrolysis use), or locating another type of DC power supply, the easiest solution is to get a 12 volt bombardment and connect in parallel (more on that follows). This can become expensive and then you demand to be more seriously using electrolysis to arrive viable.
� A 12 volt battery or other DC power source with ii amp or college current capability. A battery (in conjunction [parallel] with a charger) will always give superior results. (What does PARALLEL Mean? Encounter parallel circuit description below) A trickle (4 to 12 amps) battery charger can exist used for small-scale parts (see previous notes on the issues of newer chargers). A store grade "booster" battery charger is quite effective for even large parts (i.e. an entire engine). six volt DC works equally long every bit the current ability is high plenty. Higher voltage DC sources will work of course Simply then it becomes a shock hazard. (see prophylactic rules beneath) but moreover, higher voltage increases the risk of hydrogen embrittlement.
If you lot use a battery in combination with a charger, it is best Non to connect the battery in Serial with the charger since the highest electric current bachelor is limited to the chapters of the charger; i.east. you can't push 100 amps of potential available battery current through a charger with a 10 amp chapters. (What does SERIES mean?)
� Electrodes to connect to the positive bombardment final. Iron, steel, or whatever metal tin can be used. Aluminum used every bit the positive electrode deteriorates quickly. Fe (and maybe brass) would concluding longer only requires regular cleaning. The electrode can exist wire, bolts, fasteners, screening, sheet metallic or thick plate.
In addition, GRAPHITE rods are a good option and this is what would be used in a scientific discipline lab setting. Scientific discipline grade graphite rods are made of loftier-quality, ultra-fine graphite and highly compressed. They deteriorate slowly. But these rods may not exist easy for boilerplate Joe to find. They won't be at you hardware store or hobby shop. A scientific equipment supply visitor might exist the only source.
Carbon rods, such as what you find in a dry cell battery. They would be easy to obtain, if you want to dismantle a dry out cell (with some caution of course, the chemicals inside are poisonous and tin irritate skin). Only common battery carbon rods are not as pure as lab quality graphite and may innovate an unacceptable resistance to your circuit. In addition, they may not be compressed as highly and I expect they may crumble. I have not tried it and no 1 has given feedback yet.
** Note ** Stainless steel can be used considering this textile seems to last longer and cleans easier. Just, concerns have been raised which propose that as the electrode breaks downwards, the chromium in stainless steel becomes a chemical compound (hexavalent chromium) which ends up in the liquid (or as a gas in the bubbles) and in that location is the potential for the mist from the bath to become airborne and inhaled. LONG TERM exposure to the peel has been related to skin disorders and LONG TERM inhalation of fumes has been linked to lung cancer.
Withal , the US Occupational Safety & Wellness Administration has a considerable write-up on Hexavalent Chromium (CrVI) and say CrVI is produced from the high tempertures produced when welding, grinding or melting stainless steel or other metals containing chromium. This has been echoed by people I have spoken to about this, all experienced, qualified PhD Chemists and Materials Engineers. I now believe that the temperatures that occur with electrolysis as described herein are non nearly high enough to pose a risk. If you lot disagree, send documentation written past qualified experts that address the procedure of electrolysis in a h2o bath. Heresay and rumours just don't cut it. The concesus among my learned friends is that there may be NO hexchrome created in a water-based electrolysis bath, the temperatures are far likewise low.
Regardless of the electrode used, allow the liquid to evapourate and dispose of the remaining droppings in a responsible manner.
NOTE: This was merely suggested so I will pass it along. If you lot have used a stainless steel electrode and allow the electrolyte to evapourate, the grit and debris left in the container will have chromium dust in it. Pouring this out may cause the particles to become airbourne and inhaled. None of this grit would be salubrious to inhale but chromium would exist especially bad. And then be very conscientious when disposing of the stuff or get rid of it while still in a liquid grade to reduce the chances of any harm.
� H2o to mix with the electrolyte. Distilled water is non necessary but wouldn't hurt.
� The electrolyte (see above for more information). I used Arm and Hammer WASHING SODA -a mutual laundry detergent. I take also recently had success with Arm and Hammer Ultra Laundry Detergent. Master advantages here are; easy on your skin, NOT every bit corrosive to the part existence cleaned if you happen to leave the function in the solution, no worse than typical soap if it gets in your optics, AND it leaves a dainty soapy smell in the room (at least my "lemon-fresh" multifariousness does). As well, the soap effectively gets rid of the putrid scent of old gasoline and oil. (great for cleaning out old gas tanks). Other soaps and detergents work fairly well and I'll get out that for you to experiment with.
Products equivalent to washing soda. Washing soda is by and large sodium carbonate (also known as soda ash), Na2CO3, and is a sodium salt of carbonic acid. Information technology is also available as pH+, a pool and spa water treatment to raise the pH of water (make information technology more alkaline).
Other electrolytes I take tried . Take note of the cautions mentioned
Baking Soda - Sodium Bicarbonate. It works just has much the same properties as salt in that it is mildly corrosive once electricity is practical. I accept used information technology only for cursory tests. It is probably better to use it in place of washing soda than the others which follow.
Table salt- it is corrosive to metallic in information technology own right. It as well leaves a pungent chlorine smell backside. (It is sodium chloride). Very bad for aluminum.
Sea common salt- it is corrosive to metal in it ain correct. But it is non the same equally table salt. It actually contains many different types of dissolved minerals and salts. Some users have reported success with this. Very bad for aluminum.
Vinegar & acerb acid- Vinegar is a mild acid and has been reported to piece of work but the scent it makes is undesirable. Lemon juice is a mild acrid as well and smells better.
Trisodium Phosphate (TSP) - Establish in cleaners for heavy-duty apply such equally household wall and exterior cleaners, driveway cleaner etc. It is more than caustic than soap (harmful to the skin and eyes) so actress caution should be used. The warning on the container says " Circumspection: Contains Trisodium Phosphate. Wear prophylactic gloves and eye protection. Avert centre contact or prolonged contact with pare. Launder thoroughly later on handling. If eye contact occurs, flush with water for 15 minutes. Consult physician immediately. "
Electrolytes suggested just not tried:
Molasses - obviously this had been used for many years and does not even need electricity applied. The cleanup afterwards can exist a bit messy.
These work but are NOT RECOMENDED:
LYE - Sodium Hydroxide - Corrosive to metallic in it's own correct. Causes much more gasification of the water (LOTS of hydrogen and oxygen gas). Very difficult on your peel and even worse Tin Cause BLINDNESS if splashed in your eyes. Very bad for aluminum , white metals (zinc alloys) or thinly electroplated materials.
Battery acid (sulphuric) OR hydrochloric/muriatic, nitric, etc) - I don't demand to spell out that one for you do I? Manner likewise hazardous. Highly reactive to metals without adding current. Baneful / toxic fumes. Potential for severe skins burns and blindness if information technology gets in your optics.
Safe
(PLEASE read it all, peculiarly the cautions regarding safe. Review the previous information on the type of metals you tin can piece of work with and the suggestions on the "electrolyte" to use.
Call back Prophylactic!!! - There are numerous mutual sense prophylactic rules.
Automotive-type and any(most) lead-acid batteries contains SULPHURIC Acrid. Handle with care. Sparks around a battery of this type can ignite the hydrogen gases that are present inside the battery cells. This can cause the bombardment top to blow off and shower you with Acid. Make all connections to the battery first earlier plugging in the charger or connecting to the electrolysis bathroom. Potential for astringent skins burns and blindness if information technology gets in your eyes.
Power and voltage - Although you may be working with a low voltage 12 volt system, some people may be more sensitive to that voltage. An unpleasant tingle will exist felt if you lot touch both connectors from the bombardment or charger with your bare hands. More than important is the high current adequacy. If y'all were to short excursion, the leads from the battery or charger, sparks volition exist created that could exist a fire run a risk. If you were to short circuit the leads with a glaze hanger wire, a ring or necklace, information technology will glow brilliant red and cause burns and/or burn. To reduce the take a chance of personal injury, make all connections to the electrolysis bathroom before turning on the power. A shock hazard is more likely if you lot were to use a power supply greater than 12 volts.
Electrolyte - You may be using washing soda or other soap. They will not likely hurt your skin but splashing the soapy solution (which contains metal bits, grease and rust) in your eyes can't be good. If you lot use other electrolytes mentioned, they may be harmful to the skin and damaging to the eyes. Exercise caution
Gases produced - The electrolysis procedure splits water into it'south elements, namely hydrogen and oxygen. Sparks (from the battery and connections) can ignite the hydrogen/oxygen mix. Information technology is not plenty to produce a Hindenburg-like explosion in your workshop, but it is combustible all the same so this should be washed in a reasonably ventilated area and caution is brash.
Heat produced - Once the item to be cleaned has been in the bathroom for awhile, the water will get quite warm from the current transfer and may even be too hot to touch. This is a good way to aid take autonomously seized parts without the use of torches.
Setup & Procedure
The example here uses a 5 gallon (xx litre) bucket. ( The white bucket illustrated below is less than half that size ) Apply nearly 1/3 cup of washing soda in a 5 gallon bucket of h2o and mix thoroughly. If y'all are using larger containers, you lot will simply demand to add plenty washing soda (or culling electrolyte) to allow electric current to menstruation through the water. If you use other electrolytes, continue to add together the substance until current flows (bubbling occurs). Excessive electrolyte just uses more current without substantially improving the speed of the de-corroding process. Slower is better. Subsequently all, your old "whatzit" has been in the woods or under the ocean for decades or centuries,... what's a few more days?
Place the iron or stainless steel or other electrode (rods, plates, wire etc) in the bucket and connect the POSITIVE battery cable. There must be a good electrical connection. Make clean off any rust or dirt that may impede current period. It might be best to clamp the electrode to the side of the saucepan to go on it in place.
To clean small parts, a small plastic tub and a battery charger may be all that'due south needed. A few tablespoons of washing soda was sufficient.
Connect the NEGATIVE battery cable to the part to exist cleaned and identify in the bucket. . There must be a good electric connexion. Clean off whatever rust or dirt that may impede current flow. The part could be placed on the bottom or clamped to the side of the bucket or alternatively suspended from the ceiling or from a slice of wood beyond the bucket. (The purpose for suspending the item is as well permit more than even cleaning all over at the same fourth dimension.) Turn on the power. You will immediately meet bubbles and froth coming from the electrode and the office.
Corporeality of bubbling depends on diverse factors described herein. Bubbles may somewhen go a thick froth on top. Note: The froth is a Hydrogen-Oxygen gas mix and will burn down if ignited.
You may have to get out the part in for anywhere from minutes to several hours to several days or longer depending on the extent of the rust and paint BUT USE Swell CARE with aluminum or other light alloys. In whatever case, information technology is useful to occasionally check on the part and partially make clean it as the rust and paint soften. This can be effectively done with a small mitt-held wire brush or strong bristle brush and steel wool.
Left: Paint begins to pare and chimera in minutes...Right: A lite scrub with a toothbrush removes pigment
Large flakes of rust tin be hands scraped off, smaller pieces will brush off in fourth dimension and molecular-sized fragments float off into the water and become part of the froth on top. Paint may actually soften and can be peeled off in sheets, several layers at a time. This process is too good at softening rust inside h2o jackets and other tight places that are oftentimes difficult to become to. In add-on, electrolysis volition, in time, soften the rust layer betwixt the piston and cylinder wall making it easier to remove. The same process softens the rust between a seized bolt and its threaded hole or nut making information technology easier to remove without oestrus.
You can identify several items in the bath at the same fourth dimension but the more than items (thus greater electrical surface area) there are, the more current menstruum is required. This also means that the stainless plate (if quite big) also increases the electric current catamenia. In addition, the proximity of the stainless plate (positive post ) and item to exist cleaned (negative mail service) changes the current required. The closer they are, the more than electric current required. (just make certain they are a piddling distance apart-otherwise a brusque circuit) When cleaning big parts, a fully charged, heavy-duty 12 volt battery will be dead in several hours. So either use a smaller electrode, increase the distance between the electrode and part or use a Large battery and /or heavy-duty battery charger.
Equally mentioned above, the charge per unit of electrolysis can be affected in numerous means. To reduce the process, increment the distance between the electrode and the part being cleaned, reduce the concentration of the electrolyte or reduce the size of the electrode. In all instance, this increases the resistance which decreases current menstruation and slows the electrolysis process.
You lot can use any DC power supply of any voltage.HOWEVER (1) Avert high voltage just considering of the shock hazard.(2) The higher the voltage, the greater the chances of hydrogen embrittlement. A bombardment charger will piece of work, especially if used in conjunction with a battery. (The charger will help proceed the battery "upward" or if y'all use a shop blazon "booster" charger, information technology can be used past itself. A four amp trickle charger won't do much except for pocket-sized parts). A problem I have institute with some battery chargers (if y'all do not have a battery included in the circuit), is that the rectifiers that filter the AC to DC are poor. This means that some of the cloth that has been pulled off the particular yous are cleaning, gets reattached to the part because a modest fraction of the current menstruum is reversed. While not a huge problem, the part will not be as clean as it could be. If connected to a bombardment, the "unclean" output from the battery charger is filtered but not rectified. (See more than nigh this in the parallel/series circuit description beneath)
When you are finished cleaning the part, wash information technology with fresh h2o and dry out it thoroughly over a heater or in the lord's day. The freshly cleaned metal will rust very rapidly. It might exist best to either prime the metal or spray with a calorie-free oil or penetrating oil (like WD40) to stop flash rust from occurring. Another play tricks is to rinse the item with COLD h2o and dry it equally chop-chop as possible. Since the item is cold, the water does not evaporate so fast. If rinsed in hot water, the water film disappears before you can dry it with a cloth or compressed air and wink rust is almost certain to occur.
Also think that ( with iron at least) if the office you take cleaned comes out looking badly pitted and rounded off, electrolysis did not necessarily practice it. This is what the particular looked like after natural corrosion ate into it. Nevertheless pitting can be caused if caution is not taken.
Special Cleaning Methods
How to clean a bunch of small parts.
If yous accept a lot of small parts (like a bucket of bolts), y'all can employ a stainless steel screen (a common kitchen strainer works) shaped into a pouch or mini-bucket. Identify some of the parts in the screen and immerse in the electrolyte equally if information technology were a single part. Connect the bombardment NEGATIVE to the screen. All the metal parts which touch the screen (and in plow, each other as the corrosion dissolves and the parts tin electrically touch each other) are cleaned together. Use a brush to stir the parts around occasionally. This helps to remove loosened corrosion and improves the electrical contact between pieces. In time, all parts volition be generally de-corroded. Compare this to wire brushing 100 bolts individually.
Cleaning inside a tight area like a engine water jacket
Take a modest bore plastic or rubber hose, cut numerous minor holes in it and skid a length of stainless steel wire through the length of the tube. Feed this assembly into the water jacket (or any you're working with) and connect the POSITIVE battery wire. The electrode is now inside a tight area and in close proximity to the part/surface area you want to clean without touching it. Getting all the loosened grime out can be a challenge but vacuuming, compressed air or turning the unit upside downward to dump information technology out works. One problem is that the procedure causes big chunks of rust to drop off inside the unit. You may need to accomplish inside with a screwdriver or rod to break up the rust to go it out.
For cleaning inside of cylinders or other parts, employ a stainless commodities or wire supported and hanging freely within the part. This will make clean inside areas that tin't be normally reached.
Gas Tanks
I accept used this to clean out enclosed containers such every bit a gas tank . I have too received many positive reports from others that accept had success cleaning car, truck and motorcycle gas tanks. Seal off the tank, (fuel supply ports on the bottom) and fill the tank with an electrolyte solution. Drop a rod or bolt into the filler neck or opening for the tank level sending unit. Append the bolt so it cannot touch the tank in any mode and plow on the ability. The process volition dislodge gas varnish, rust and whatsoever blanket inside and also get rid of the "old gas" smell. The solution may cream up and cascade over the tank then if cleaning a motorcycle tank with a good exterior paint task, Do caution , While the electrolyte in itself will non affect paint on the exterior of the tank, if the electrolyte foams plenty to cascade over the tank while ability is connected, electrolysis tin occur by passing current from the electrode through the foam and to the tank. This can potentially begin to lift the pigment. Attempt to continue backlog cream off the outside of the tank.
Cleaning large items
The use of a drum (45 gallon) was mentioned above. These are ordinarily big enough to identify an entire minor engine in (or lathe bed or wood stove etc). Surround the inside of the drum with screen or canvass steel (stainless is better) and connect to the POSITIVE bombardment lead. Lower the unabridged engine or part into the middle of the drum using an engine hoist, chain block or suspended from the ceiling. Connect the NEGATIVE lead. Over time and with some brushing, the whole unit of measurement volition be costless of rust, grease and paint before y'all even take information technology apart. This will require considerable current so a large battery charger capable of maintaining xxx amps or more volition be needed.
REUSE the electrolyte
After a while, the electrolyte gets quite dirty with suspended metal and clay or grease. I have institute (at least while using washing soda) that if you remove the electrodes, wires and parts from the electrolysis bath and go out the liquid to sit a few days, most material drops to the bottom. Siphon off the clear liquid at the top and re-use information technology, perhaps add a bit more electrolyte and h2o before starting the process again. HOWEVER, some material volition remain in suspension and may touch (discolour) the part y'all are cleaning.
Example: If you lot have merely cleaned a lot of brass, the electrolyte gets a green hue. Cleaning steel in this liquid may leave information technology with a slight dark-brown discolouration. If this is undesirable, you will need a fresh batch of electrolyte.
If you don't intend to reuse the electrolyte and information technology was not used for extensive de-greasing, it can still be used as a soap to remove dirt and droppings from metal. Information technology is probably best not to but dump the liquid outside in the ground as it may contain lots of metallic and grease.
Merely more than importantly if stainless steel was used as the positive electrode, the breakup of the fabric will leave chromium suspended in the liquid and it would exist considered an environmental hazard. It is best to allow the electrolyte to evaporate in any instance and dispose of the debris left behind in an environmentally responsible manner. If stainless steel was used, it should exist considered a hazardous waste.
THIS IS Not A MIRACLE WORKER. Some good old-fashioned elbow grease volition still be needed but the effort is much-reduced.
An Interesting Utilise for Electrolysis - A Lather maker
Effectually May of 2008, I was contacted by a adult female in Tokyo, Nihon in relation to the electrolysis process which she felt might exist the technology behind a curious device that was marketed there (No longer fabricated). It is a commercially fabricated device about the size of a kitchen waste basket with 2 chambers clearly separated by a divider with holes in it. Each chamber has a drain spigot in the bottom. To use it, you lot mix a Sodium Bicarbonate (blistering soda) solution and fill up both chambers.
She claims that after running it for a few hours, the liquid on 1 side becomes a very effective cleaner, very adept at removing/dissolving kitchen grease etc.
The theory at this point is that the ii chambers are separated by a reverse osmosis (RO) blazon membrane which is fine plenty to stop even bacteria from passing through (hence an RO system is usually used to make clean poor water for human consumption). All the same electrons are pocket-sized enough to pass through such a membrane. But what is going on hither?
After discussions with my "smarter-than-me" BioChemist blood brother, he confirmed my guess that if DC current is practical to a baking soda solution, yet the solution is effectively separated by an RO membrane, the solution becomes alkaline on one side, and acidic on the other. The element of group i solution is sodium hydroxide (NaOH) and the acidic solution is carbonic acid (H2CO3).
If anyone has boosted information or guesses on just what is going on here, I am forever curious about such things.
Of course my main question is why have a machine to brand Sodium Hydroxide when we (at least in N America) can hands purchase large bags of pure Sodium Hydroxide for not a lot of money? You could make 100'due south of litres of a cleaning solution with that.
Questions and Answers
What is hydrogen embrittlement ?- As best as I understand it at the moment, hydrogen (the smallest atom) from the electrolysis solution can exist forced betwixt the surficial molecules of the item you are cleaning. This in result can destabilize the surface and introduce cracks that may not exist visible without considerable magnification. It is more likely to happen during long periods in the electrolysis bath or high current and rapid cleaning. In many cases this will not be a business organisation but consider the following examples earlier you choose your electrolysis cleaning method:
- A thin band saw blade, already a hardened steel, can become more brittle or develop cracks that may cause the blade to break under employ
- An engine connecting rod, normally under much stress while in the engine and running, can develop cracks and increase the chance of the rod breaking when the engine is run.
- Thin sheet metal, such as an antique car body that is already thin due to rust, can become brittle which will increase the chance of stress cracks occurring once the automobile is assembled and driven down the road.
These are all cases reported me and are more than likley to accept occurred because the user tried to clean the particular as well fast. Every bit said many times, experiment first earlier cleaning thin or hardened items or whatsoever component that is likely to be nether considerable stress.
What does it mean to connect a battery charger in parallel (or series) with the battery? When charging up a car battery, or boosting one car from another, you ALWAYS connect the postive to positive and negative to negative. This is an example of a parallel excursion. If, when working on a car and yous connect the leads incorrectly, the sparks volition really fly and the battery could even explode. The outset epitome below shows the correct connection of the charger to the battery. In this case, the battery volition initially provide the bulk of the current with the charger "helping out". The voltage potential across the negative and positive posts volition be about 12 volts. The charger supplies some of the current being used and keeps the battery from going dead as fast. When the battery does drain most of information technology's accuse, the charger will all the same continue to supply power. In this case, the unclean DC that comes out of some battery chargers is FILTERED (A/C pulses smoothed out), but no boosted rectification occurs.
This is typically how you want to connect the charger. Information technology is the aforementioned as if you were trying to accuse upwardly the battery in your car. Connecting the charger leads in reverse may cause large sparks, and may destroy the charger. Also at that place is a possiblity of a battery explosion. A lot of sparks around a battery can ignite the hydogen gases that are ever-present inside the battery which can cause the top of the bombardment to blow off and shower y'all with sulphuric acid!!! (Information technology happened to me!)
SERIES Circuit. You could potentially connect a battery charger in series with the battery but I have never done and then and tin't image why you would want to. Information technology defeats one of the chief purposes of using a battery, having loftier current available, even so it volition help to rectify [create a clean Direct Electric current] the ability coming from the battery charger or other A/C to D/C power supply). Although a battery in a series excursion will also help to rectify the A/C power supply (much equally a diode or rectifier will), the electric current supply will be express to the ability of the charger.So a 10 amp charger in series cannot deliver much more x amps earlier the internal wiring becomes overloaded and melts.
In this setup, the postive charger clamp is continued to the negative battery post. The voltage potential between the postive battery post and the negative charger atomic number 82 will be 24 volts, and the output will be a clean D/C. Still, if yous are using a charger with a rating of 12 amps, you will not exist able to get more than 12 amps from this excursion every bit it is express to the capabilty of the charger. There is nothing dangerous here, there just doesn't seem to be point to it for the sake of getting 24 volt output....information technology is unnecessary.
The instructions mention a preference for stainless steel electrodes. Why?
The electrode connected to the postitive battery contact gains material during the process of removing it from the part y'all are cleaning. Aluminum and steel concord on to a lot of this material, (rust, corrosion, iron or copper bits) and somewhen create an electrical bulwark which well-nigh stops the electric current period through the electrolyte. Regular cleaning of this material is needed by scraper or wire brush. Stainless steel does not allow as much cloth to stick, so it requires less cleaning and attention. In add-on, stainless fabric does not interruption down fast so will outlast steel many times over. (In spite of the concerns with the employ of stainless material, I stand up past the comments of the terminal 2 sentences if a Expert QUALITY stainless is used). Admittedly, it is difficult to know the quality of the stainless textile you lot obtain. I repeat here; concerns take been raised to me that using stainless steel produces hexavalent chromium, a chancy gas. I have yet to take ANY scientific evidence provided to me that proves that when using stainless steel in a water-based electrolysis bathroom, that ANY hexavalent chromium is produced.
Where to I get stainless steel?
Stainless steel is available in many forms. Wire, screen, bolts and thin or thick plating. These are mostly available at hardware stores or a bolt and fastener specialty shop. Stainless screen or plate may be available through a metal working shop that builds ducting or sheet metal products. New stainless is expensive merely will last years. Try a fleck metallic yard for pieces of stainless. You may even notice pieces of automotive trim in an car junk 1000 made of stainless.It was often used as door moldings and window trim.
I have observed electroplaters using a method chosen brushed plating to repair worn periscope shafts and am wondering if this process could exist used for cleaning?
Electronically, electrolysis is only electroplating in reverse (opposite the polarity of the DC source). A significant difference is the electrolyte used. While washing soda etc is suggested hither to allow current flow for electrolysis, the electrolyte for electroplating is a specific chemical solution for each metal plating procedure to allow the plating material to adhere to the base of operations metal. Even so, the DC current supply should be just as useful for either purpose.
Can I remove the chrome plating from an antique weapon (a pistol)?
Probably not. The electroplating process, if done properly, will include an acid dip to remove all dirt, rust and oxidation. The item might be plated many times over. If the chrome (or brass or silver plating) is well-adhered to the base metal, electrolysis will non lift the plating.
Will electrolysis remove zinc/galvanized plating?
As stated previously, many types of coatings such as hot-dipped zinc plating or silver plating, if non well-adhered to the base of operations metal (whatever it might exist), can be undermined with electrolysis. It will elevator, loosen and peel off. I plant this out the hard manner when I was trying to make clean/detarnish a silver-plated water pitcher. The plating began to fleck off. In that case it was no groovy loss but it was an unpleasant surprise all the same.
Can this be used to clean an all-aluminum motorcycle or other minor engine?
If caution is used, it will help to remove layers of corrosion from aluminum. But if you are trying to free up a steel part inside an aluminum casting, be warned, the aluminum will exist eaten abroad much faster than steel. A shiny motorcycle engine instance will exist pitted and discoloured quickly. This could effectively ruin the car. If you accept no other choice, information technology may be worth a try.
Will brass and/or babbit be eroded using this process?
Any solid brass or copper volition not be adversely afflicted outside of some discolouration. The babbit (lead alloy) bearings found in many erstwhile machines will deteriorate somewhat faster than steel but the surface will non be quickly etched. The biggest issue is how well the babbit was adhered to the base metal (iron or brass). If the bond is poor, the babbit shell will be undermined and eventually come loose. If that is the example, you should be thinking of repouring the babbit anyway.
Does the part need to be degreased before the electrolysis process? Volition electrolysis remove adept paint on make clean, non-rusted metal?
The office you are cleaning needs no special preparation exterior of insuring a good electrical connexion. Grease falls off the part and dissolves in the soapy solution in conjunction with the rut produced by electrolysis. Paint, even broiled enamel, will eventually peel off the base of operations metallic in single sheets and volition happen fifty-fifty on rust-gratis metal and expert paint.
How can I adjust the rate of the cleaning process?
Opposed to buying a very expensive scientific grade power supply to adjust the current flow, it is simpler to either a) utilize less washing soda to make a weaker electrolyte, b) movement the role being cleaned abroad from the electrode or c) add together a load in series with the circuit such as a 12 volt lite seedling or electrical motor. In all cases, the resistance increases, the electric current flow drops and the procedure is reduced in effectiveness.
Can a small-scale battery trickle charger be used?
Small battery chargers in the range of four to 10 amps may not be suitable. This is non because the current is bereft but the quality of the direct current (D.C) is not good. Ideally, yous desire a pure DC source as that from a battery. Battery and trickle chargers must catechumen the 120/220 volt 50/lx Hz alternating current (A.C.) from your wall socket to 12 volts D.C.. The diodes (or rectifiers) which filter A.C. to D.C. are not very expert in small and cheap chargers. The stop upshot is the A.C. which gets through can cause as much material from the electrode to stick to the office beingness cleaned as what has been removed from it. If continued to a bombardment, the "unclean" output from the bombardment charger is rectified. This holds true for even a nearly expressionless battery. While the battery charger may exist supplying most of the current afterwards the battery is discharged, the bombardment still helps to rectify the current flow. Experimentation is essential in whatsoever case.
Have y'all cleaned springs using this method? I am wondering if at that place would be any loss of tension past running the electric current thorough it.
(Carefully review the section on hydrogen embrittlement above.) Aye I have cleaned springs and they should not exist affected by electrolysis Merely depression voltage should be used . A jump would ordinarily simply lose its tension through excessive rut or stress and electrolysis does non get that hot. Notwithstanding, voltages to a higher place 1 volt start to introduce hydrogen embrittlement which can cause the spring to crack under stress. I expect that if the bound is quite rusty, it will already be weakened in the pitted areas where corrosion is present .
If I want to clean up something made of brass or statuary , what do I employ as a sacrificial piece connected to the positive terminal?
I have not found that the type of positive (sacrificial) electrode makes whatever significant difference in the cleaning procedure. I have tried many unlike metals when cleaning iron or brass and there is no obvious divergence relative to the effectiveness of cleaning an item.
I have hooked everything up simply aught is happening.
This has been reported many times and the reasons are e'er the same. The power supply is inadequate, the electrolyte is also weak, the electrode is too far from the item you are cleaning or the connections are poor. If all these are correct, something will happen, at least a bit of bubbling and foam.
User Feedback
The uses for this are quite broad with reports of successful use on stoves, lathes, engines and other car parts, tractors, WWI ordinance found on the seafloor and fifty-fifty Napoleonic -era artifacts. Hither merely afew of the emails:
....I stripped some old ornate heat grates, that are and so ornate that the matching one's I've done in
the pst took almost an hr to sandblast. I likewise did an ornate iron fence finial, which I'grand in the process of bondo-coating for the foundry right now. 1 of 16 has survived it's 140 history out front of our firm, and so it'due south time to replicate a batch.
This is definitely my new favourite way to make clean stuff up. Stick in the bath and walk away. Thanks for all the help....Brad
.....I really appreciate the great tips you've given on cleaning metals electrically, and and then have hundreds of of others. Seriously, I had searched for a way to remove commercial enamel labelling from little metal tins without damaging the tin-plating with abrasives, asphyxiating myself/my family with aggressive solvents, etc., when I chanced upon your folio. I linked information technology on my weblog, and it is almost the most viewd entry (blame it on the crafters, makers and steampunks). The link is at http://offlogic.wordpress.com/2007/09/03/electrolytic-removal-of-enamel-from-tins/ . I just thought I should give thanks y'all directly. You lot saved a lot of u.s.a. a lot of elbow grease!.....Sam
....These Ceremonious War artifacts accept been in the footing for 150+ years and the electrolysis procedure is doing quite a job on removing rust (old iron, etc) so encrusted that sometimes I deceit even notice where to get-go (for a good connectedness)....... Thanks again for all your assistance and time, you lot truly are a "handy-man!"
...Thank you for your fine commodity. I am reading it in preparation for cleaning several pieces of bandage-iron cookware....Lawrence
.....This is simply a annotation to let yous know that I have successfully de-rusted dozens of VERY rusty motorcycle gas tanks over the last 6 years or so....many thank you for your extremely informative and detailed writeup.... Rick
.....I am using the electrolysis cleaning method outlined on your website to make clean a 13" South Bend lathe. I am completely impressed by the results I am getting. I typically leave the parts in the tank for 24 hours. The grease disappears, the paint comes off in sheets, and the rust is completely gone. Nothing left but blank metal! Thank you so much for creating the website you did. I accept found the instructions very articulate. Just didn't await the method to work so well! Thanks again for your work! Ron C. USA ...
......I collect old cast iron frying pans and electrolysis gets them clean easily and leaves a nice finish. Beats the heck out of my one-time method of scraping, and the lye treatment that was suggested by someone. Bob Southward, USA ....
......I tried it last night using a trickle charger (8amps I think), seawater, steel commodities every bit anode (+) and connecting the negative terminal to the aluminum role. It is scary how well that works. I only did some less critical parts similar handles and levers. About 15 min. loosened all the paint enough to make it a 30 sec. wire brush job. A careful inspection with the magnifying drinking glass did show some slight pitting. I would hesitate to do this with aluminum parts that accept precise tolerance surfaces similar blocks or cylinder heads. Still I am extremely impressed. Even if I tin can't use this one on every office it will still save me tons of time... Henry, U.s.
Your feedback is desired. Tell me of your success stories or alternatively, problems y'all encounter. Have your questions not been answered?? I want to know.
For clarification or more detail of this process contact me, Philip, at: oldiron@antique-engine.ns.ca
Source: https://antique-engine.ns.ca/electrolysis.html
Posted by: millerwastfultaint.blogspot.com
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